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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.